Enough history, here is my dilemma. That one basically comes straight from the hot side of the starter solenoid and has a pretty stiff charge for a radio. Or you are a student, or maybe even you that just wish to know about Wiring Diagram For 1966 Ford Mustang. For early '65 Mustangs with center-off, two-speed fans, speed control happens at the fan motor. When you need power for accessories, lights, and the like, you don't have to cut and splice connections.
It's important to understand these differences when you are ordering a wiring system from Mustangs Plus. On the white wire: From the engine bay, the washer pump black wire goes into the wiper switch as it should based on all the diagrams. There is a solid white jumper wire coming off the switch that received power from another source on my old harness. That's a good place for the red wire, which is for the actual functioning of the radio, and, the yellow memory wire would be the one going to the lighter. Your main concern since your using the rca setup like I'm doing would be that red power wire that needs to be constant so your radio doesn't lose it's brain every time you turn off the car, that yellow one and I think? Right now I'm going off memory and it's been a while since I looked at the diagrams. Don't Cut It, Plug It! Some of these connections appear to have some form of color coding. If that wire doesn't already have an in-line fuse, I would definitely put one on it.
There are other plugs for courtesy lights and accessories. Can you take a couple pictures that show more of the new harness? Almost anyone can do it. You could be a professional who intends to search for recommendations or solve existing problems. When Ford went to a three-speed, left-off fan switch, it went to a two-wire fan motor and a resistor pack located in the heater box. Ok, so the wiring harness under my 65 mustang is trashed. Exposed copper wiring can ground out against the body or chassis, smoking the harness and starting a fire. Grounds speak for themselves, especially when you photograph them before removal.
User Alert System provided by - Copyright © 2019 DragonByte Technologies Ltd. The other stuff I cannot find in the diagram. I need to identify some of these connections. . I haven't installed it quite yet but I need to get around to it and figure out the yellow wire for you.
I think the multi connector in the picture with the white wire is the turn signal connector. Also, some of this stuff you can figure out by proximity-where it falls in dash will help determine what it goes to. I already know on the wiring for the stereo, the red is power and the yellow is for memory constant power but just wondering if the wiring setup in the Mustang is the same color too. I too thought it was flasher wiring. Sharp metal edges can chew right through wiring, especially when you consider road shock and vibration. Use these plugs for light-load accessories only. But I still have a few connections I am hazy on.
It depends on the options the car was built with. According to Veronica's diagram 137 would be the power that runs the original radio, but like she said it's keyed not constant , so you'd always lose your presets and clock on the aftermarket radio if you used that as the power source. Please correct me if I'm misunderstanding what you're trying to do here. I am using one set that has nice illustrations of each section then a corresponding page with a wiring diagram for that section. I really appreciate the reply. Since you have the harness out, you can simply check for continuity from the wire in question, then to every connection till you find it, and will lead you to the purpose of that wire.
Please take a look and help if you can. Even though I have numerous wiring diagrams, I laid the new harness out and labeled, numbered and described location and color on each wire on the new harness as I removed the old wire from its original position. I don't remember what the yellow one does memory? Firewall plugs mate at the firewall to tie the underdash main wiring loom to the headlamp and engine looms. Which does not help either. I found some old thread of Mustang wiring but there were no diagrams or nobody really replied to their threads. If there a way to decipher these or am I just reading to much into them? Here is a picture of the complete harness I do have on hand. A classic Mustang's electrical system consists of four basic areas.
It's also a good idea to replace all of the light bulbs, including headlamps. I found a comparatively inexpensive later model switch so I can eliminate the old harness. After 40 years, insulation becomes brittle, exposed copper corrodes, terminals become pitted, and electrical tape begins to roll off. The other diagram I am using I downloaded as a two part file that is nothing but really technical diagram. The white wire on the new harness also supplies power, so I connected the white off the switch to it and the pump still worked. As I said, everything went back exactly as I took the old one off. Remember, do not cut the harness when you don't have to.
You had one wire supplying keyed power to the radio and the light, and two speaker wires. The outcomes of the aggregation are published on this internet site. The thing that is throwing me is that they don't always match up or agree like you mentioned. More than likely we'll just need to figure out where you want your constant to be I like Veronica's suggestion of the threaded stud on the back of the ignition and for the dimmer stuff the old radio's light wire would work. When you shut the key off, the radio also goes off.
I think the white wire goes to the windshield washer pump. You'll need a steady constant for your red power wire and I'll need to refresh on what that yellow one does on the aftermarket radio. Replacing a vintage Ford's factory electrical system is easy because everything plugs together one way. Lelu's 66 Mustang: 1966 Mustang Wiring Diagrams, size: 800 x 600 px, source: 1. Handy for stuff you add though. Can I assume the wiring of the stock radio is similar to the wiring today? If the reason that you want to do it like that is because you don't want to pull the instrument cluster and search for the accessory feed, I would come off of the threaded stud on the back of the ignition switch. There was no constant power, because none of the things that we take for granted on a radio today even existed in 66.