I have installed Chrysler electronic ignition on more then a hundred cars over the years, and have been on site to troubleshoot hundreds more mechanic at the largest auto repair gas station in our town of 30,000 between 72 and 78, dirt track racing Mopars 15+ years, and worked part time at a race shop when I worked at a factory in maintenance. The terminal at 10 o'clock would be the - field circuit and 11 o'clock would be the + field circuit. This is from the 1970 service manual Good Luck. Most of the time, it was the start side of the resistor that failed, Mopar solved that issue by eliminating the start side and just use the run side. One with the distributor in your vehicle you can check it right in the vehicle with a dwell meter, with your dwell meter hooked up and the vehicle running as you increase the rpms of the vehicle your dwell reading should be steady, if it starts bouncing around it's a good indication that the shaft or bushings are worn. That show had an Accel booth, so I took off my 2 month old coil and went to the booth to have a talk. If it can it's a very simple swap.
We figured the time was right and ripe for us to look at some common Mopar electrical maladies, as well as a boatload of tips, tricks, and updates. You can use a 4 pin box with a 4 pin resistor, but you cannot use a 5 pin box with a 2 pin resistor. I'm also replacing my dash harness too. Biggest hassle is extra depth thickness. Whether you are converting an earlier ignition system, replacing Lean Burn, or repairing an existing electronic ignition system, the work is not at all difficult. Connect a fusible link to the starter relay stud. The old voltage regulators are repairable and rebuild able.
In the diagram above, the brown, two dark blues, and the light blue all get connected together. So, when setting up your module wiring, it's best to install a relay that'll provide full line voltage to the module via the coil + terminal. The second problem is a little tougher, but solvable. Installing the Mopar electronic ignition requires a distributor with the magnetic pickup, and one more wire to the ballast resistor. Then you buy a electronic ignition module from a chevy.
It is a very good idea to completely disassemble the distributor and clean and wash all the parts with a good cleaner or solvent. Charging systems are first on the agenitals. First, you will notice on your original ballast resistor you will have two red wires on one side and a single red wire on the other for trucks. I hate the wiring lol I'm very new also do alot of my questions might be stupid bit better safe than sorry. While these systems are of themselves, electronic ignition, they do not use the same components as the regular electronic ignition system. Now I'm running the original 270 Hemi which meant I could use a stock 318 low deck distributor. Also while I got you all here any one know of a place I can get valve covers for my 413 heads.
Check the vacuum advance canister with a vacuum pump to make sure it holds a vacuum of 15 in. This diagram is basically the same as the shop manual, except I simplified it by deleting the V8 distributors and the B body horn relay wiring. All modifications are done to this half left in this picture. Diagram 3 below describes how to install a 70 and later voltage regulator on a pre-1970 Mopar. In most cases, it still fits, but output stud must be shortened and insulator to splash shield discarded. Story and photos by Richard Ehrenberg. Obviously, you should follow the directions that come with witch ever ignition kit you are using.
Place the distributor in a vise in order to perform the side wear test. Mopar added the 2 extra bolts to help seal the valve covers. Clean the paint from the back of the ecu case, around the bolt holes, and what ever you mount to. They promptly handed me a new coil, that was still in the box, but this box also had a resistor. You are listening to some people that may or may not know what their talking about, which is why your getting conflicting info.
Bulkhead firewall are the universal trouble spot. B bodies had a horn relay rather than the horn button activating the horn directly. There are two bushings in the housing, they are pressed into the housing, they can be removed with punch and hammer or a press, once the new ones are installed they will have to be burnished or reamed to fit the shaft, once this is done you can install the shaft into the housing and pre-lubricate the shaft with a light axle type grease. The late-model Nipondenso alternators left can be retrofitted. Once it has been determined that there is no spark, there are a few quick checks that can be performed to determine the cause. I believe the extra 2 bolts were added around 63 or 64.
However, this coil has a male spark plug type secondary terminal rather than the female type on our original coils, so you'd need to get an appropriate coil-to-distributor-cap cable. Heres a picture of my old one. The 60s - early 70s ammeters themselves were reliable pieces, it was the wiring that was usually to blame. Even later, starting with front-drivers, Chrysler abandoned the ammeter entirely, favoring, instead, a voltmeter. Some have done the mod by just bolting the module to the inner fender and had acceptable results, but in the long term, the aluminum is probably worth the trouble. Depends on the tach, there could be another wire for the light. We strive for accuracy but we are not necessarily experts or authorities on the subject.
Then simply splice in one more blue wire which you then run over to the second alternator field terminal. To delete the ballast resistor, just remove it and connect all the wires that went to both ends together. Put a fuseholder in this wire as close as possible to your power takeoff point. Here is the wiring system I have. The pick-up coil is common to all applications, while the reluctor is different between 6 and 8 cylinder engines.